Global Arab Network | Djibouti - African, Arabian and part of Mars

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Djibouti - African, Arabian and part of Mars

Global Arab Network - - Andy McDonough

Thursday, 22 October 2009 14:39

Djibouti is enthralling: one part Africa, one part Arabia, one part Mars. This tiny port hub (the country is five times smaller than the emirate of Abu Dhabi) punches above its weight in terms of trade, commerce and political importance. What it does lack is tourists.

Almost all the westerners here are military – both the French Foreign Legion and the US military have bases here – resulting in it being a quintessential port city, with prices to match; Djibouti for the most part, is not cheap. The city is small and swarming with green Toyota taxis, robed Issa tribesmen, US GIs, Turkish and Japanese sailors and the ubiquitous Foreign Legionnaires (replete with knee-high socks and tasselled hats).

Step outside the confines of the city and it becomes clear why this little corner of Africa – bordered by Eritrea to the north and Somalia to the south – is one of the most fascinating places in the world. This is Earth’s ground zero, a place where the Arabian and African tectonic plates are separating, resulting in lava caves, lunar landscapes and holes in the ground so hot you can boil water in them. The Bay of Ghoubett, a moderate-sized inlet punctuated by mushroom-shaped volcanoes will be bigger than the Atlantic Ocean in five million years as the tectonic plates below it push apart. From October onwards, you can snorkel with whale sharks or relax on pristine, empty beaches.

A truly magical place, Djibouti’s charms won’t be secret for long, and with the country only three hours away by air it makes for a perfect weekend getaway.

What to do

Djibouti’s main city is more of a town than a city. Built on a grid system, its narrow lanes are perfect for strolling around the centre and onwards to the port, where warships and container ships of all nationalities pass through. French is the language of choice, although most people involved in the tourist trade speak basic English.

The city itself is rather sleepy during the day so most visitors take day trips – either out to sea to relax or inland to see some of the country’s surreal topography. Dolphin Excursion (00 253 350313) is the most reliable tour operator and offers a variety of getaways. From October to March, you can go snorkelling with whale sharks just off the coast; the rest of the year, head to Moucha Island for the day US$50 (Dh184; lunch included) where a deep blue sea laps onto white sand beaches, your only companions being scurrying crabs and the occasional camper.

Djibouti contains the southern tip of one of the most fascinating geological features on the planet: the Danakil Depression. The landscape is overwhelming; ancient volcanic debris lies like crushed marble as steam rises from holes in the ground. As the latitude drops, the temperature rises – four degrees in five minutes at one point. Lake Assal itself is a deep blue, bordered by sharp, dark mountains that crash into bright white salt flats. This is the most saline body of water outside Antarctica and the surrounding area is desolate, although there is wildlife here. Camels swagger slowly across the road, antelope dart up mountainsides and baboons appear out of nowhere. Dolphin can organise a 4x4 and a guide (Max, a Frenchman with an encyclopedic knowledge of the area) for $150 (Dh550) per person.

Where to stay

Budget
Located right at the centre of the town, the Residence De L’Europe is clean, relatively cheap and boasts Wi-Fi – it is one of the few hotels in the city that does. The rooms are rather non-descript, although the fridge is useful for storing drinks without having to pay the rather exorbitant mini-bar costs. Double rooms cost from $58 (Dh213).
Residence de L’Europe, Place du 27 Juin, Djibouti.

Mid-range
Right next door to the Residence stands the Hotel Menelik. The rooms are big and clean and the service is good. Ask for an upper floor if you want a good night’s sleep because the hotel has a basement nightclub that closes at 2am. Double rooms cost from $94 (Dh345).
Hotel Menelik, Place du 27 Juin, Djibouti.

Luxury
The Djibouti Palace Kempinski is the city’s only five-star hotel. It is huge, remote and rather soulless – very much a destination for the business traveller who wants to be kept as far away from downtown Djibouti as possible. The sunset views overlooking the coast, however, are stunning. Double rooms cost from $466 (Dh1,710).
Djibouti Palace Kempinski, Lot du Heron.

Breakfast
Most of the hotels offer coffee and croissants for breakfast and not much else. Sit outside your hotel and eat it al fresco – locals dot the pavements doing much the same – sipping on sugary coffee and chain-smoking. If you want more of a choice, head to Au Com Pouce at 16 Rue Ethiopia, run by a gregarious Greek owner and his wife. They offer French and Danish pastries for $1 (Dh4), but no coffee, so head around the corner and order a $2(Dh7) cafe latte at Cafe Au France. Sit on the terrace watching the city wake up.

Lunch
Despite being a former French colony, Djibouti excels in the cuisine of another European nation with ties to the Horn of Africa: Italy. Pizzerias are everywhere and the servings are huge and delicious. One of the best pizzas I have ever eaten was the Pizza Lac Abbe ($14, Dh50) at Cafe Mask (00 253 823767). Looking out onto Place du 27 Juin, the faux tribal decor may be a little annoying and the prices quite high, but the quality of the food makes up for those small quibbles. Another option is Le Pizzaiole (00 253 354439) which prides itself on its calzone ($10, Dh37) – a deliciously messy creation perfect for a late lunch.

Dinner
There is no real Djibouti cuisine to speak of – like the country itself, it mixes and matches outside influences – with delicious results. The roof terrace of La Fontaine Terrace on Rue du Ethiopia may have bizarre decor (a Christmas tree flashed rather forlornly in a corner) but the food is cheap and delicious. Order the gergerca tirce for $5(Dh18) – a Yemeni dish served in what looks like a flower pot. Burning coals at the bottom keep the chicken and vegetables sizzling. Equally tasty is the Ethiopian dish shero poulet for $3.50 (Dh13), a hotpot of chicken, spices, tomatoes and vegetables, ready to be mopped up by spongy injera. Elsewhere there are a number of bar-cum-restaurants that serve French, Italian and American food; the best of the bunch being Restaurant Brasserie L’Histoire on Place du 27 Juin, which has a perfect view of the main square.

Recommended reading
The Danakil Diaries by Wilfred Thesiger recounts the explorer’s travels from Ethiopia into modern-day Djibouti.

Global Arab Network

BY Conor Purcell, this article appeared in The National

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